The clear coat dulled down the shine but the idea behind this is I expected the enamel to get chipped and worn off, exposing the “metal” underneath – the clear coat was to help getting the metal colour from getting chipped off too. I laid down some aluminium spray, then coated that in a clear coat. After a round of automotive filler (eg Bondo) I switched to automotive spot putty for the bigger divots, then a few rounds of automotive filler primer (or spray putty) and lots of sanding. Removing bubbles and smoothing out the rough texture was time consuming. Marine Helm from Halo: Combat Evolved (File from Halo costuming Wiki ). This also meant I didn’t need to use my good high density foam and so I used some cheap “checkerplate” garage floor mat. Resin and Pepakura : A simple guide to the safe use of fiberglass resin There are lots of tutorials on How to fiberglass and How to create Pepakura but there these seem to skip the steps between building the Pepakura pattern and laying the fiberglass. I decided to use a couple of different types of thermoplastic – Worblas Finest Arts, Lumiflex and probably even some Cosplayflex. Since I was using the original Humbrol enamel hobby paints I needed to stiffen the armour. So scale the back, and use the scale measurement not the mm measurement to scale the front. PDO has the shoulder pieces floating off to the side, making the model wider and completely ruining the scalability. Measure yourself, add some extra for clothing, thickness of your chosen material (eg foam), breathing room, then SCALE THE BACK FIRST. Oh, very important note when it comes to scaling this armour to your size.

But they certainly put you on the road for an awesome costume. There are differences if you know what to look for, and I had to modify the design to fit me properly. I think I saw a snippet of conversation somewhere suggesting these were modeled from an Alien video game. Note I have found these designs aren’t quite screen accurate, especially the knee pad.

Pepakura patterns helmet